Fashion or Fa
d, the New Style Twist Has Fly Shops (and Salons) Counting Their Chickens… By Tim Romano and Kirk Deeter
If you wake up one morning and notice all your fly tying hackles are gone, check with the Mrs., or perhaps your daughter. Seems that one of the newest and hottest style trends involves using premium hackle as women’s hair extensions.
The idea took off in and around Boulder, Colorado, but has since spread to California and elsewhere. They are called Feather extensions… extensions bonded with carotene wax. Cost is $5 for one feather, and up to $25 for 5-7 feathers. (You do the math to value a typical cape of feathers in a busy salon.) The more expensive versions are called “couture” feathers and feature the best hackle available… hence the sudden massive demand for fine feathers. The extensions last in hair for about 2 weeks (cold fusion), or up to 2 months for the hot fusion variety.
And the lady who takes credit for starting the boom–Joy Douglas, owner of Zing Hair Salon on Spruce Street in Boulder–says it isn’t slowing down any time soon. (For what it’s worth, Miley Cyrus was recently seen gracing a magazine cover with a feather extension… we can only imagine what will happen now.)
Ms. Douglas also claims that she’s one of the only salons in the country that is a middle (wo)man/distributor to other salons in the industry. She claims that other salons only know how to get feathers from fly shops. She’s sourced as many distributors from within the fly fishing industry as possible, but is at a loss for how to get more.
In fact, Ms. Douglas literally drove to Whiting Farms one night to lock down as much product as possible. She claims that Dr. Tom Whiting doubled prices on her overnight when he realized the quantities she was willing to buy. She has since had a major problem getting feathers and is trying to source from anywhere she can. Her main sources are Metz and Whiting.
Of course, all of this raises an interesting question… is this a new “twist” on a sales opportunity for fly shops… a nightmare waiting to happen for fly tiers… or both? No question, if you have hackle in your shop, you might look at its value in a different context in the near future.
No question, sales are up. Said Jon Spiegel area manager of Front Range Anglers in Boulder: “We can’t keep hackle in stock in the shop. We get it in and the next thing I know some gal comes in and buys all the hackle we have.”
And the demand stretches at least as far as California. In fact, we heard from Bob Marriott’s Fly Fishing Store in Fullerton, California, that they’ve sold thousands of dollars in hackle; one day alone, they were approached by a woman who wanted to place a $10,000 order (but alas, they didn’t have the inventory/ability to fill it).
Which leads us to the flip-side concern… the lack of product availability.
Malcolm Robertson, an avid fly tier from Colorado said: “I just went to my fly shop, and they were completely out of hackle. None, Zip… I wonder what’s going on there? I can’t believe that fly shop is OUT of hackle.”
More than likely, Robertson won’t be the only one left wondering in the near future. It seems, after all, there are only so many chickens to go around, and the hairdo craze is putting a serious crimp on inventory that might otherwise go to fly tiers. Will hackle providers amp production? Can they? Will some hackle companies favor fashionistas over the fly shops? And is that fair or… well, fowl?
The thought of what might happen is enough to get anyone’s, um, hackles up…
*Thanks to Steve Qualline of Bob Marriott’s for the lead on the story… we’re only starting coverage, with a full follow-up feature now in the works. Let us know, please if the hackle hair extension phenomenon has reached your area… or is impacting your business and how.
51 Comments
Well, it has reached here to beautiful central Oregon! I am a salon owner in La Pine and just started doing the feather hair extensions a few weeks ago. My prices are not quite as high as quoted in your article but with the supply and demand, comes higher pricing. I have found 2 places to get feathers at for a reasonable price but one place has litereally raised their prices overnight, they are a tackle shop. The other place I get my feathers at will remain a secret. This is most likely just a fad, but the question is, how long will it last? I hope it lasts long enough for me to join in on the fun and possibly make a little profit. Cindy
While yes, these salons and individuals are buying all of the saddles they can, they are not buying capes, so there is plenty of hackle out there for the tyer. But, if the tyer wants saddles, they are out of luck for the most part, it is best to call their local shop, and have their specific needs ordered for them from the manufacturer, Pay for them, and when they come in they are set aside for him. We do this for our customers. Otherwise, you are relying on luck, and that is not the way to do it in this market.
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Hi, I am the Mgr. of Herb Bauer Sporting Goods in Fresno, Ca. In response to the quote from the lady that said a certain feather supplier increased her cost by double? she is correct. and I am upset that that company would double there the fee they charge to take advantage of anyone…..does anyone else think this is wrong?…….
All the best, Bob
Annoying, yes. Wrong, no.
They aren’t necessarily taking advantage of anyone. They are simply succumbing to the principles of supply and demand. As demand goes up, so must price. This is really the only way to keep any product on the shelves at all. If they didn’t jack the price up, we wouldn’t have access to product.
I’m a fly fisher/tier and this hits me as much as the rest and yes, it’s really annoying. I saw a young lady napping at an airport with these in her hair and i joked that I bet I could clip them out without waking her up. I still think i could have.
Hackle is not the exclusive right to fly-craft, it just seems that way because that’s how it’s been for so long.
Like any other shortage though, maybe this will force people to get more creative and to try new things. These situations often breed innovation. We can only hope it will this time.
Greg is quite correct. This is how supply and demand works in a market economy. This is a good lesson in how scarce resources are allocated by the pricing mechanism.
It is a fad. When it fades away the supply will increase to the point you will see prices drop…. unless demand remains very hight because as a result of the fad hordes of young, wealthy urban professionals take up fly tying.
I wonder if they’ll start using floatant instead of hair gel now?
That was pretty funny! Speaking as a hairdresser. =)
Oh Please….. don’t give them any ideas. I’m listed on the pro team website and I’m getting more stylists trying to contact me directly and buy hackles. I’m holding on to my supply tightly and it isn’t hanging in my hair. 🙂 Then again it would make for easy stream side access if I had to mend a fly. LOL
We’ve seen the influx of orders as well. We nearly doubled the price of Euro Hackles and still can’t keep them in stock. Now, they won’t will be unabailable until 2012 – Yikes! We had our freshwater flies on sale over the winter and have now taken them off sale until the smoke clears. While capes are preferred for small dry flies, we know plenty of tiers that prefer using high quality saddles. The demad for what saddles we have is so high that “fashion” customers are more than willing to accept substitute colors for their orders simply because they can’t get saddles anywhere else. No fly tyer would do that. We hope this fad ends quickly. It’s nice to sales in the short term, but can’t help but wonder what will happen in long term.
Yes, your article is mostly correct. But we at Whiting Farms are endeavoring to supply our bedrock fly fishing shops with a substitute product called the Whiting Fashion Pack, very much like our core product the Whiting 100 Pack (sized saddle hackle), to spread the number of feathers around and preserve this new found sales traffic for the pro shops. Our core buiness has always been, and will remain, for the fly tiers of the world.
I’m very disappointed with you guys devoting so much space to a trend of using feathers for hair pieces.
There is a lot of good stuff happening out there that you haven’t covered well, yet you devote the top of your newsletter to this?
Richard,
This is a relevant issue that impacts many shops in many ways… the space is free to you… and we also covered several other relevant news topics today (as we do almost every day on the website… and in print). So if you have an angle, offer it up. If you’re doing something great, I’m all ears.
KD
I too hope the fad doesn’t last too long.
In the short run those of us in the fly fishing community are just going to have to put up with an increase in prices. Prices have to rise to meet the shift in the aggregate demand curve otherwise shortages will continue if not grow more severe and secondary markets will pop up with folks realizing the opportunity for arbitrage. No one likes to pay more than for the same product, but it’s better than not having any available at all.
The challenge for suppliers like Whiting and Metz with increasing production in the short run is doing it so that it doesn’t leave them vulnerable to the inevitable collapse in demand and pricing with excess capacity when the fad passes. An example of this is what happened to portable generator companies after Y2K fizzled out – half the firms went bankrupt.
For now I’m going to climb a few more trees when a cast goes bad, and use a few more less-than ideal feathers when I tye. The hair fad will eventually pass and things will settle back to normal.
Making money is not a crime. I have seen my local fly shop booming due to the trend in useing feathers for earings. They are ordering 50 saddles at a time and are having a hard time keeping them in stock. The girls are also buying more exotic feathers like blue eared pheasant, not to mention the peacock, pheasant tails and whatever else looks good.
I see it as a way that my local shop can survive, make a profit, and then stay in business stocking exotic materials that I “need” when my tying addiction takes over.
This is great news. I hope the feather producers continue to thrive so they will contine to produce great products for me.
Jeff.
I have read the article “Hackle: Hair Today and Gone Tomorrow” carefully, and I have to take exception to several of the “facts” and portrayals within this piece.
First of all the feather that are being used for hair extensions, and in jewelry and crafts also, are SADDLE feathers. Whiting Farms has never had a year in it’s 22 year existance where we didn’t sell more capes than saddles. And that is still the situation today. Furthermore we are having a particularly robust sales season of not only our capes, but all of our fly tying feathers, to the fly fishing shops and distributors we supply world wide. Specifically we are selling strongly our Whiting 100 saddle hackle packs, and our flagship Whiting quarter, half and full rooster saddles, as well as our two other dry fly lines; the Hebert/Miner and our new High and Dry Hackle. So for the authors to state there is no hackle in the fly fishing shops is just not correct. We are shipping it out as fast as we can get it our the door.
The article also suggests that we are NOT selling our potential fashion saddles to the fly fishing shops. In fact the majority we have sold to date have been to them. And we were glad to do this, despite a few of the shops putting the EuroHackle saddles, the principle product wanted by the fashion folks, on e-bay and selling them for whatever the market would bear. Some shops even set up new web sites and starting peddling hair extensions themselves to cash in on the craze. So for the authors of this article to imply that Whiting Farms is selling out to the fashion industry, when the shops themselves are selling them to anybody BUT fly tiers, is completely backwards. I want our dealers to prosper-if they do we do-so I don’t begrudge them making the most of this new sales traffic into their shops.
The raw fact of the matter is, right now, demand exceeds supply for certain types of our saddles. Yet some shops and distributors were putting in order for EuroHackle saddles in excess of our yearly production! So the only fair way to spread this scarce product around equitably was to reconfigure the EuroHackle saddles into a smaller quantity Whiting Fashion Pack, much the same as our Whiting 100 Pack. Therefore the shops would get their sales and margin, and the majority of the saddles wouldn’t be concentrated in only a few hands. Whiting Farms is endeavoring to produce these Fashion Packs as fast as we can-so part of the “shortage” right now is due to this product reconfiguration.
Also I don’t think the authors should be lunping together all the hackle growers. Whiting Farms is fundamentally different. The mission of Whiting Farms, from its inception, has always been to supply the fly tiers of the world with the highest quality, value, selection, service and reputation with our feather products. The other hackle growers really only do dry fly hackle, and then some soft hackle as an offshoot to this. Whiting Farms has a multiplicity of product lines, way beyond just dry fly, including genetic wet fly, Spey hackle, partridge substitutes, Coq de Leon, and an assortment of different lines of dry fly. So what the other growers do with their saddles represents most of what they produce, while these fashion feather saddles only represent a portion of what Whiting Farms produces.
When this fashion phenomena fads away, we will still be endeavoring to produce the best array of fly tying feathers we can.
Sincerely, Tom Whiting
Tom,
The facts are very straightforward as presented in this short piece: There is a new, unexpected trend involving feathers in hair salons… this has created a surge in demand… in some cases, that’s led to difficulty in shops supplying product to a variety of customers… and some customers are having difficulty obtaining some of the products they want. Simple. Straightforward. On the record. That’s all it said. So please, while I appreciate and value your comments, and will depend on you for your unique insights as we develop the story further… I ask you not to take things out of context. We did not suggest anything… we raised a number of questions. If you have answers, great.
Moreover, we are pleased that you are selling lots of feathers. We hope that continues, and we hope fly shops continue to meet the product needs of their existing customers. If they realize additional revenue opportunities through this phenomenon… that’s great also.
Tom
While I love your product and will sell it over any other hackle in our shop. It is hard for us to understand your business practices. We receive an email from you with an outrageous price increases to your Herbert Miner Saddles and Euro Saddles. Than you come up with the idea of the Fashion Packs. Your increasing the price of single saddle feathers even more with the Fashion Packs. Explain how we are supposed to sell what once was a high quality, economy priced saddle feather to customers with an extremely accelerated price tag?
This fashion is going to go away as quick as it has come and it makes sense to me that as a company Whitting should use the supply they have and fill orders to your top dealers who pay their bills on time. Don’t sell your wholesale items to a Hair designer. Do you see where you draw the lines in the sand for who you support when you do something like this? Make her go to the fly shops and pay retail for them. This shows that you support your dealers and the Fly Fishing Industry.
The people who really hurt in this whole situation is not your dealers but their customers, the Fly Tier. Next year this issue will not even be thought of, but I bet the prices on Saddles will not have been lowered.
Well said Tom
On second thought after reading Kirk and Tim’s comments, they have very valid points. I just find this topic quite interesting. I saw Steven Tyler on American Idol wearing these hackles last night. Don’t know what I think about all this. I don’t even think they are all that attractive nonetheless.
Thanks Tom
This is an interesting advancement for fly tying feathers, we fly tiers love our capes and saddles, it’s going to be interesting to see who wins the house hold battles for the prize.
It’s not the first time feathers have been part of the fashion industry, but this time there is a direct impact on supply and demand for particular feathers.
Mike
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Lets see, today isn’t April 1st, is it?
If indeed, this is a legit story, then the effects of this on the flyfishing industry will be like most other fads – the fad starts, becomes popular when a “celebrity” or “star” embraces it, then it fades quickly. The end result will be a short-term shortage of certain colors of hackle. The hackle companies will ramp up production. There will be a lot more cheap feathers imported to take advantage of the fad. When the fad fades, there will be a glut of hackles resulting in discounted sales to reduce inventory.
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this all comes down to making money, i just hope fly shops will remain loyal to their customers and not sell these feathers to hair salons employees, owners. the salon owners can deal directly with Whiting and the othert big feather dealers. leave the fly shops for the fly tyers, please.
I feel Metz has taken the correct course of action in this circus, and I hope Whiting Will follow their lead. Umpqua/Metz decided not to sell direct to the hair industry but instead to refer them to fly shops in their area. With such a demand and shortage of supply, there is no reason to sell outside of our industry. By keeping the money in our industry, this will translate to more sales in rods, reels, flies, tying material etc for the manufactures. The end result is well stocked fly shops for the consumer.
I received an irate phone call from a gal at “Fine Feather Heads” about me selling to her customers. She was pretty boastful about the fact that she now has the biggest supply of Whiting Saddles and that once our supply runs out she will still have plenty to go around.
If that is in fact true, what Whiting is doing is cutting us out of the deal by selling direct to the featherhead companies at near retail pricing. That is most certainly their choice, but when this is all over I feel my hackle business will shift drastically towards Metz as a result of their loyalty.
While i agree the shops are jumping for joy, for us tyers it stinks. I typically go through a dozen or so saddles yearly and now have to turn customers away becuase i cannot fill their orders.
Doing a show today i was approached by a lady with these feathers in her hair who offered to buy 5 of my saddles on the spot.
So Dr. Whiting…. if you market EuroSaddles only in the 16 pack for $20…. that equates to about $200.00 + for the full saddle equivilant.( assuming a top grade/200 feathers) No way im gonna pay that.
Being on the front line of this latest “fad” I’ll give my 2 cents. This fad came slowly, about 4 to 5 years in the making , and then struck like wild fire. We as fly tiers do not have any real knowledge of how big the fashion industry is. Who would have thought that gals would want to put feathers in their hair and ears anyway? There is little doubt that the demand has far exceeded the supply, and Tom Whiting has found a equitable way to distribute his product.
I don’t recall anyone complaining about all of their brisk saddle sales this past 6 months. The new fashion packs will still fly off the shelves.
That being said, Tom Whiting should make as much money from this as he can.
Let me ask this : Is it fair to Dr Whiting that he raises the birds does all the genetic selection and sells the birds for wholesale price that is then sold at the end user for 20 to 30 times his wholesale price? Just for plucking the feathers out?
HELL NO!
I say make hay while the sun is shining Tom Whiting. We should all be thankful that Tom has taken fly tying feathers as far as he has. Let’s not begrudge him his sunshine, God only knows how many cloudy days he must have seen before he caught this sunny day.
Is he selling to the fashion industry at cheaper prices then the fly fishing industry? I think not. His current prices are fair to all.
Amen!!
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Hmmm. Besides watch for road kill fur, it sounds like I will need to add watching hair salon trash cans for chicken feathers as well as.
WOW……WOW……WOW……who would of thought.. Maybe someone should start a hackle hair extension recycling service…..
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I feel sorry for you guys… I guess the only thing worse is finding a bunch of weekend warriors in your fishing hole. I have seen hackles for sale on Etsy. so it seems like a lot of people are buying them and then re-selling them.
I commented in February on this article and I thought I would send an update, Since February the prices I had been getting my hair feathers at have risen dramatically. Still going up weekly. However the demand for them has not gone down. Feathers are becoming more and more scarce to come by. I am now selling wholesale as well as offering the service in my salon. The midwest is now getting in on this feather hair craze. I don’t see it stopping anytime soon, unless of course we run out of feathers. From what I hear that is going to happen vey soon! So, for now I am buying and selling what I can to make a little profit. In truth I do try to keep my wholesale prices at a decent price. I hate to see prices go up. I unfortunately had to raise my salon prices too, but I still think I am under what most places are charging these days. The way I lok at it, every one is trying to make a living and this fad is helping people from all ends of the spectrum that deal with feathers. It will end some day and life in the fishing world will be back to normal and when it does I will then take my left over feathers and learn how to fly fish.
Cindy
I find it kind of funny that so many tyers are hollering foul when a business (retail or wholesale) has a legitimate way to make some good money for a change. These hackles have been available for years thanks to the likes of Mrs. Hoffman, Metz and Whiting and others. They have been made available to the tyers by local fly shops for selection and purchase. All of these folks have made big investments and taken risks and sometimes barely been able to hang on in order to stay in business. Meanwhile, at least at the retail level, a number of local shops have closed their doors because the local sports have often gone to the “big box” stores or the internet to make their purchases in order to save a few bucks or avoid sales tax and now they scream about the lack of loyalty. Fly fishing isn’t a “get rich quick” industry. When there is a legitimate reason for them to make a comfortable profit and to allow them to keep their doors open, I say more power to them. I’ve already bought my supply of good capes and saddles to weather the fad. Indeed, I have a few extra to sell to female friends who are hairdressers so I will be prepared to buy new feathers when the commotion dies down. I’ve always held the notion that being to tight with money or beng cheap wasn’t necessarily the best monetary policy. Now my investment in feathers and $3.00 an ounce silver seems like a stroke of genius.
Interesting phenomenon. I have to wonder how long the fad will last. Hackle growers like Dr. Tom have to weigh that into their process, because it takes at least a year to grow a rooster and harvest its hackles. If the fashion market for feather extensions withers in that time, then the market will be flooded with saddles. That won’t help fly tyers in the long run, because some outlets won’t be able to withstand the downturn.
In the meantime, it will be a very volatile market. I work in a midwest fly shop and our cupboard is bare. And yes, some stylists are turning to hackle capes as a substitute for saddles, so things are going to get worse before they get better for fly tyers.
For that reason, it certainly is worthy of note in the fly tying world, and the fishing media are being responsible to their audience in advising them of the market conditions.
Yes, it sounds like a cutthroat business, but is that term a little redundant? I don’t necessarily agree with retaliatory tactics, but at the end of the day feather merchants are entitled to charge what the market will bear, and that means retail outlets too, like my fly shop. I haven’t noticed any gas stations cutting their prices just to be nice, have you?
I’m fortunate to have a decent supply of hackles in my fly tying kit, and while I’ve been tempted to try to capitalize on the windfall, that would just put me back in line in the retail market to replace the ones I sell.
Makes me wonder if I need to add a rider on my homeowners insurance to cover my hackles. And I’m only half-joking.
I agree I’m holding on to my feathers tight but at the same time I’m very happy that Whiting Farms is doing so well in this recession. I saw a couple of my favorite fly shops close at the beginning of this tough economy and this trend is helping a lot of people. I imagine there are a few fly tyers that have made some much needed income off this temporary fad. I’m not currently working I went back to school and I was tempted to sell some but I know it would be hard to replace them right now and I do use them for art projects as well as my fly tying so I keep my supply close. I’ve had some pretty obnoxious stylists contact me and I’ve sent them on to fly shops and suggested other Whiting Products that might help them out also. I’ve had some inquiries from friends to make earrings and hair extensions so I bought a few of the crimps they use in salons but I’m not letting them advertise for me. I like to fly fish and tie flies.
Cindy I hope you do use your extra feathers to go fishing … but you might be sad to remember all those feathers you crimped into hair. LOL We really should start a recycle business for used hair extensions…I liked that idea. The fish won’t notice.
I’m sure
Whiting will always be popular to an extent with the fashion industry and the high end crafters they make so many wonderful products and they’re only getting better. I think the hair fad will pass and we will all survive. Tom has always treated the fly tyers exceptionally well so I can wait out the fad and keep my hair extensions orders to a minimum. 🙂 My neighbors daughter is wearing them and I recognized them as being Whiting Farms, they looked nice.
Deb
I’m in Long Island New York and I can’t keep enough feathers instock to put in my client’s hair. There are Kiosks in the mall stocked like crazy doing the extensions and i am shocked people are paying what they do for the single feathers. The company I got my feathers from always had colors and sizes i needed until about 2 weeks ago and now I am hunting down new distributors. This feather craze is insane!
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I wrote first back in February and then again in April in the comments. Now it is August. At the time I first wrote I had no idea that this “fad” would still be going strong. I was hoping of course, but wasn’t sure. I am selling the feathers wholesale and also retailing in may salon. I am charging $5 a feather and think that is fair. There are a lot of salons charging a lot more than that. I believe my wholesale pricing is also fair. I realize that the feathers are still very hard to get, but I have seen a lot of them for sale on Ebay and elsewhere and they are being sold by fishermen who are now giving up their $15 saddles for an easy $350,00. I can’t say I blame them. However, I hear all this stuff about the fishermen being upset at us hairstylists and then they turn around and sell their saddles for as much as they can get to the hairstylists and then the hairstylists have to turn around and charge thier clients more and so on and so on. So I find it humorous that the fishermen are complaining about us hairdressers.when in reality they are now making money off of us. I am not angry at this, I currently am buying from a fly fisherman. It is just funny as to what makes life go around.
Cindy
Paraphrasing the beginning of the article: ‘if you notice your hackles missing..check with the mrs. or daughter.’ Since I am the Mrs as well as the tyer in my family, guess my husband would have some answering to do, but hopefully it would just mean that he has also taken up tying. 🙂 Is this hair trend still popular?? I have yet to see one person in the Seattle area wearing feathers, yet I see slim pickings at a few nearby fly shops..especially Cabelas. I personally would never wear a feather in my hair, I think this is one of those trends that people will joke about in a few years, BUT, at the same time..whatever floats your boat. 🙂 I fortunately began tying before this trend so I have all of the feathers I need and then some! If anyone needs some natural grizzly, it’s all yours for $500. 😉 (kidding – I need mine for flies!)
As A veteran fly tyer,flyfisher for the past 32 yrs.and fishing guide for the past 15. I would have to say profit while you can on anything in this life and this country while you can! Things are subject to change at any time and quite quickly! Many say the feather fashion is only a fad.So are tattoos and piercings but they don’t seem to be going away, my advice is start raising chickens and other fowl with bright plumage if the fad dies out you can eat the stock! Another good thought is thank God the fashion is not of a wild bird for it would quickly become near extinct! (this happened to beavers in the 19th century for the hat trade and the carolina parakeet is extinct due to its plumage being used in hats) Now if we can just get the fashion industry interested in Taliban and Al-Qaida real hair hair extentions the whole world will be a little happier! Just my nickels worth,Tim
My sister just started doing feathers at her nail salon and they are extremely popular. I thought I’d google this new trend and came across this article. I live on Vancouver island in Canada and I haven’t gone a day in weeks without seeing girls with feathers in their hair. I must admit, fad or fashion, when done right they can look kinda cute. Good luck with the feathers, because I know she is having a heck of a time trying to get them!!
Cheers 🙂
This feather fashion is outragous!!!! As a fly tyer and fly fisherman I am paying $3 more for a fly and up towards $250 more for bulk to tie flies now than what I did before this nonsense started. This is ridiculous and needs to stop. Fly tying and fly fishing is my job and with the economy down and this outragous fashion taking place it is not helping my finances as a business man. This nonsense needs to stop!
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Hair feathers are back! Well, they never really left, just kind of went on a little vacation for the winter. So just a heads up, the beauty industry will be going at it again in 2012. Yes, it may not be as popular as it was in 2011, but they are here!
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